Non-standard waist line

In ready-to-wear garments (and almost all sewing patterns available on the market) you will find standard proportions between the waist circumference and the hip circumference.


However, it is very common that these proportions differ in a real life, which leads to quite obvious fitting issues. If your waist is smaller than the expected standard, you can fix it relatively “quick and dirty” by taking the side seams slightly in. If the waist circumference is larger than the standard this is more challenging, but still possible – if only the skirt has a very plain design.

If a design has fancy cuts, yokes etc, it is quite a task to get it right and keep the desired proportions. Moreover, by enlarging the pattern waist circumference you should take into account that the extra cm/in are needed mostly on the front and should not be evenly spited between the front and the back. As this is usually due to more prominent abdomen and your belly is usually “rather” on the front, isn’t it? So this is why simply taking up a regular size that is larger does not actually solve the problem on the waist level, not to mention that it creates fitting issues around the hips!

Therefore, we cover this challenge and make our skirt and pants available also at additional sizes taking into account non-standard proportions between the waist and the hips.


The logic here is similar to our non-standard sizing for the bust size (Bust size matters), where:

S”: means Standard proportions of the waist-hip combination,

S-1” refers to the waist size ONE size LOWER (=smaller) than the standard,

S+1” refers to the waist size ONE size HIGHER (=wider) than the standard,

S+2” refers to the waist size TWO sizes HIGHER (=wider) than the standard

Again, we take here a certain short-cut for the simplicity of the methodology. The one size step corresponds actually to sizes up to EU46/US16/UK18, where the skip between sizes is equal to 4cm/1.6″. In the sizing above EU46/US16/UK18 this grow is larger and equal to 6.5cm /2.6″ per size. So it is actually equal to 2/3 size change in the second range. So keep in mind the rule “one size” higher or lower, but ALWAYS check the exact measurements given in our sizing tables.

How to choose the size?

The leading measurement is your hips circumference. Based on that you need to choose the circumference size. Next, compare your waist circumference with the S-1 up to S+2 measurements. Based on that you should choose the waist size.

Example: Hip circumference 100cm and waist circumference 80cm is the skirt/trousers size 40/S+1.

Leave a Reply